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| Outer shrine and inner sanctum sanctorum |
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| Outer shrine |
Call it co-incidence or miracle, something interesting happened when I visited Mukthinath-the giver of Salvation.
Mukthinath is a small shrine which is nestled in the Torang La mountain pass, at an altitude about 3700+ meters. Tucked away amidst sylvan surroundings, it overlooks the mighty Annapurna range of Himalayan mountains.
Around the side of the shrine, running from the right to the left are 108 water faucets that constantly spill freezing water from the mountains, mostly from the tributaries of the mighty Gandaki river. They are the Mukthidharas or ‘streams for salvation’. Devotees pass beneath all the 108 spouts of freezing waters before the darshan of the Muktinath. Though I did carry a set of fresh clothes, even before we reached the place, I had decided that a cold water shower was not for me. But my daughter put me to shame by deciding to have the cold showers and before I could concoct why it wasn’t good for a twelve year old, she was peeling off her sweaters and removing her shoes.
I watched as she, shivering, hurried beneath the 108 spouts. “My God, hats off, “I thought. But she did not stop at that. There are two ponds of more freezing waters before the shrine. Someone told her that salvation will be incomplete if she did not dip into both of them also. Before I said no she was immersing herself in one after another…shivering body and chattering teeth I later helped the imp change into warmer clothes.
“Ok. I am done! “she said and it sounded like a challenge to me.Like- “I bet you can’t!” And isn’t that slight enough for an Arien like me?
“Ok. I go now, “I said not feeling even half as bold as I sounded. I never have cold water shower even in peak summer. And now to have freezing showers-not under one but 108 spouts! Well at Muktinath…will attain salvation instantly were I to die of cold shock! And so I sprinted in tees and tights beneath the 108 spouts.. I was praying loudly I think-some shloka of Vishnu…and before long I was out on the other side of the 108 faucets! “Now you do the pond,” someone said.
“…..” I thought I said no. But no voice came out as I was cold-gagged. “No, this I can’t,” I said.I will only sprinkle the pond water on my head. Taking a dip is beyond me, “ I said, certain I would die if I dipped!
Feeling better after changing into fresh clothes I was ready for darshan.
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| My daughter under cold showers |
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| Cold shower time for me |
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| Shower spouts shaped as bulls' mouths |
Mukthinath is a sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists and is rich with legendary references.
For Hindus, it is the Muktikshetra or the Place for salvation and was known also as Thiru Saligramam as it is believed to house the Saligrama (naturally formed black holy stone) of Lord Vishnu. It is one of the 108 Divya deshams as perceived by the Sri Vaishnavites (worshippers of Vishnu) and one of the 51 Shakthi peetams for the Hindus. The Hindus believe the idols to be of Lord Sri Murthi and Goddess Sri Devi Thayaar.
For the Buddhists it is known as Chumig Gyatsa (meaning 100 waters in Tibetian) and is one of the 24 Tantric places. They believe the idol inside to be that of Avalokiteshwara.
There is a sanctum sanctorum within the shrine and of course photography is prohibited here. Interestingly there is a 3-4 feet tall sitting idol of a four armed god with a hole at the tip of his nose! He looks like a Buddha but has the conch, the Sudarshan chakra, a lotus flower and a lotus bud in each of his hands. He is surrounded by smaller figurines which look very much Tibetian. All in bronze I think, but I had read somewhere that it was a statue of gold! At his feet is a heap of offering of currency notes- Indian and Nepalese
A Buddhist nun watches us as my cousins have parked themselves in the tiny place and have begun chanting the Vishnu sahasranama, full throttle. I don’t know the hymns and after offering an abridged prayer I get out of the sanctum into the courtyard.
My cell phone jingles and I am surprised there is connectivity here too! It is my sister on Whatsapp.
“Bad news…”I feel giddy. My uncle (Dad’s youngest brother) has passed away! He had been ailing for sometime. And when I call her back to enquire about the details, the phone goes dead!
Brimming eyes and heavy feet I get back into the sanctum sanctorum. The chanting is still on. I stare at the Muktinatha-golden, Buddha-looking ears, adorned with colorful shining vastras. I was here, at this hour, sent for a reason!
“God, let him rest in peace. Grant salvation to my beloved uncle,” I pray. I make an offering in currency for the second time and get out of the shrine.
I failed to make any contact with home for the next two days! It did not surprise me. Something had ensured I pray for the departed soul at Muktinatha!
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